Divorcing the Tacoma... Let's talk turkey on my new truck

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/4679536947.html

Okay, so there is snow up at the mine now and I am thinking about buying this pickup to get me through the winter (which in Alaska means Winter + Spring because we don't get a Spring) so that I can save more money to buy a nicer truck next year.

This model year gets really good customer satisfaction and safety reviews and I like that it has a manual transfer case and leather lumbar seats (because my knee and hip are all jacked up). I sent the guy an email asking if it was actually a "new" motor, like a crate motor or if the stock motor was rebuilt and if so who did the work. Asked what motor/tranny are in it. Asked what exactly is "broken" although I believe he meant cosmetic crap that happens after a vehicle hits the 20 year mark.

So here's why I'm thinking about buying Old Blue. I'm not sure if I mentioned (possibly because it upsets me so much I don't like to talk about it) is that recently when I had the Taco in the shop I found out why it will not keep a block heater in place (they keep popping out, which is very dangerous. I could lose my motor). The block has a casting defect in it.

When they put the freeze plug in place 17 years ago they no doubt used some sort of supersonic high-heat silicon from outer space. We had a hard time knocking it out. But now that it's out, nothing will go back in and stay in because of the defect. I managed castings and forgings for 15 years... castings are a bitch to repair in the best of circumstances. This isn't even close to a good circumstance. And with this winter supposed to be an uber cold El Nino winter, I cannot go another season with a pickup that doesn't have a block heater in it. So I'm just over it. I want it gone and I don't want to deal with it anymore. 

I should have asked him how many miles are on the chassis, so I'll do that. What have I not yet asked? I'll ask if he has maintenance records of course. He is the original owner. I'll ask about accidents, but it has a clean title. I'd want to get the vin and run a carfax. 

Anyone think this is a bad plan? I'm all ears.

Another option... 5 less years "miles" on the chassis:

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/4672439410.html

130k more miles on the motor. Rebuilt tranny w/transferrable warranty.

I know I said I was not a fan of Tundras but nc said he loves his, so I checked out this model year. This one gets excellent reliability & consumer reviews. Might be worth looking into for the winter anyhow.

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/4674509141.html

I like the looks of the Silverado. The bed looks a bit small, though.

If you haul a lot of firewood, you'll need to make an extra trip or three.

im with eric. i like the silverado too

I had one that i used to pull my boat and it was great, she wasnt pretty like the one your looking at but ran great and easy to fix if needed.

I hate rebuilt automatic transmissions, though. They don't last more than a year for me.

I'm no mechanic, but I hear that the transmission shops don't rebuild the valve bodies. I asked a guy at Aamco one time and he quoted a ridiculous price to rebuild a transmission with a rebuilt valve body. They obviously don't touch the valve bodies.

I wouldn't know a valve body if it bit me on the ass and don't even know what they do, but I suspect they're important.

riceme wrote:

Joanimaroni wrote:

Let me know when you need advice on the color.

lol,

I have always had white pickups and have always avoided grey and black because they blend into the asphalt. I have always avoided red because they are cop magnets. I no longer want a white pickup because they blend in to the snow, ice and fog. I'm hoping my new pickup turns out to be red. I am all about being high-visibility now!

Getting ready to start looking at the 2015 F-150...lighter than before and always had good luck with my '07...If they are willing to deal I could be persuaded to consider a 2014 model....Other option is a Toyota Tundra so looks like it's now down to these options...

Look up repairing a partial aluminum body. Apparently, there are problems with that.

I forget exactly what the problems were, but I think it requires separate rooms for sanding/grinding.

Headaches for the retair shops... and higher costs.

Here is one article, but it wasn't the one I read a while ago.http://www.dailytech.com/Report+Cost+of+Aluminum+Vehicle+Repairs+Will+Hit+Body+Shops+Consumers+Hard/article34576.htm

From car and driver

Quote :

As for extreme damage to either the cab or the bed, VCR said it would probably just replace the whole of either, as welding aluminum patch panels into, say, a pickup bed’s forward bulkhead, requires a clean room to prevent contamination of the metal. And even getting panels can be tricky: Clean-room-equipped shops are pretty rare, and we were told that many manufacturers won’t even provide replacement aluminum body sections, as a precaution against contamination. (If aluminum is contaminated, it will corrode faster than normal.) What about small repairs, such as hail damage? We spoke with Dent Wizard, a national paintless dent-repair company, and were told that if an aluminum panel could be repaired (and not all can be), customers are levied a 25-percent upcharge for the effort. Dent Wizard also reiterated aluminum’s resistance to clean dent removal.

Eric wrote:

I like the looks of the Silverado.  The bed looks a bit small, though.

If you haul a lot of firewood, you'll need to make an extra trip or three.

Cool. Which Silverado? Old Blue or the grey one?

Bear in mind that would be gaining miles of bed space going from the Taco to any Silverado, but I think that's a standard bed.

I was thinking of the newer one. But, it has the rebuilt tranny. How long is the warranty on it?

You all are reading my mind. I have already eliminated the 2015 because of the body work issue. I researched that when I first read about it maybe six months ago. The other thing is that I feel uncomfortable with the safety rating. The frame is also made out of aluminum, and even though it's supposed to be aircraft-grade aluminum and the safety rating is supposed to be really good, I am not convinced.

Eric wrote:

I was thinking of the newer one.  But, it has the rebuilt tranny.  How long is the warranty on it?

I don't know yet... I haven't heard back from the guy yet.

Eric wrote:

Look up repairing a partial aluminum body.  Apparently, there are problems with that.

I forget exactly what the problems were, but I think it requires separate rooms for sanding/grinding.

Headaches for the retair shops... and higher costs.

Sure bodyshops will have to catch up with this new body style.... curious because of the significant weight difference between the older models...

mediawatcher wrote:

Eric wrote:

Look up repairing a partial aluminum body.  Apparently, there are problems with that.

I forget exactly what the problems were, but I think it requires separate rooms for sanding/grinding.

Headaches for the retair shops... and higher costs.

   Sure bodyshops will have to catch up with this new body style.... curious because of the significant  weight difference between the older models...

MW, because of the increased costs of training and clean room necessity, I'll bet insurance costs will be higher on it as well.

Eric wrote:

mediawatcher wrote:

Eric wrote:

Look up repairing a partial aluminum body.  Apparently, there are problems with that.

I forget exactly what the problems were, but I think it requires separate rooms for sanding/grinding.

Headaches for the retair shops... and higher costs.

   Sure bodyshops will have to catch up with this new body style.... curious because of the significant  weight difference between the older models...

MW, because of the increased costs of training and clean room necessity, I'll bet insurance costs will be higher on it as well.

That will certainly have to be taken into consideration...The 2014's or Tundra may be looking better!....

And considering everything in Alaska runs about 50 years behind the lower 48 the aluminum body style is a no-go for me.

Here's another 95 Chevy. 242k miles on the chassis 28k on the motor. I like that this one has a campershell. It does not snow in the back of the truck half the year.

http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/4656271858.html

Was it a complete engine rebuild ? Often if you just rebuild the upper the new stress will destroy the lower. Make sure it was a top and bottom rebuild and if you like it ,offer him $2900 and tell him I told you to. LOL

Also make sure the oil is not foamy or milky and high on the dipstick. Then check the transmission fluid by dripping some of it on a Paper towel .Then if the transmission fluid leaves a small dot of rusty looking dark residue in the center of the drip it indicates wear and metallic particles in the unit. Make sure it doesn't look burnt. Check the battery compartment for corrosion . See if you can find any obvious body repair and look at the tires for signs of uneven wear which might show that the frame is bent. Check for leaks in the cab. Bounce it on all four corners and see if the shocks recover quickly.  Have fun

Teo had good suggestions, Ricey.

Cool, thanks, T. I had those things on my list except for asking about whether it was a complete rebuild. Good point. I always examine and smell the motor oil too to see what's happening there.

Oh, also need to check the radiator/antifreeze situation. It's critical up here.

Make sure the thermostat gets the engine up to temp and holds it there. Chk the coolant overflow to be sure the antifreeze is on the cold line and is green and not rusty colored. Listen to the brakes also are they spongy and check the emergency brake to see if it will stop the car from a slow roll. Operate windows radio all electronics and try the ignition switch at all the settings to make sure it's not worn out.

You guys are great... my forum family

All the indicator lamps should be visible when you roll the igniti n toward start make sure you see them flash and go out especially the check engine light. Tail gate latch for ease and secure lock. Of course make sure all lights and hi beams work.