Glad to be a surfer

Paddled out into small glassy surf knee to thigh high but beautiful water just
a few friends no tourist hordes. All the world behind you and nothing but endless horizon in front, under you the slimmest of objects no motor, no sail, just the ocean and you.

About 10 the surf jumped up waist rib perfect a frames super long walls. The high tide push was perfect, these are the moments that surfing gifts us. Lifelong friends sharing a very personal relationship with our Mother together sharing that gift of life.

Only a surfer knows the feeling!

AHO

I'm glad you enjoyed it!

I keep meaning to get back out there, man. I have a skindiver's wetsuit somewhere, but with full sleeves, it would wear me out in no time. We used to surf in just doggers during the winter, but those days are gone!

Maybe one day.

When u are ready let. Me know. Perfect surf today for getting started rolling to the beach no dumps very forgiving.

And as was pointed out to me. I was on a borrowed board,,,,a girl board at that!!